As of my last post, I pretty much had everything done, I just needed to get everything mounted inside the case, and a few minor tweaks here and there.
First thing I did was wrap the power leads running to the sound portion of the box, to the lighting portion, so that both boards could be run from the same power source. All of the components in this project do not use a ton of power, so piggybacking them was not a concern of mine.
Secondly, I needed to prepare the logo to be mounted into the old space where the 7 segment LED readout used to be. I decided I was going to superglue the red plexiglass into the holder, and use a piece of transparency paper with the logo printed on one side, and the other side lightly sanded, to act as a diffuser.
Preparing the logo transparency was pretty easy, but if I had thought it out a little more, I would have sanded the transparency first, and then cut the logo out (sanding a tiny little square of paper-thin plastic is difficult, to say the least).
The superglue didn’t work out nearly as well as I had hoped, but it looks good enough, and most people wouldn’t even notice the problem I had. For some reason, the superglue, even when applied sparingly along the edge of the plexiglass, caused a portion of the plexi to “haze up”. I could scratch part of the haze away with a fingernail, but I didn’t want go crazy, as I didn’t want to have to replace the plexi.
Next step was mounting the 15 LEDs that I had used on the old status indicators. At first I thought I might be able to reuse the old LEDs that were previously housed in the box, but regardless of what I did, I couldn’t get any of them to light up (I had no data sheets on them, so I had no clue as to what voltage they required nor what sort of resistors were needed. Perhaps 6V wasn’t enough). So I had to mount each LED in place, and I started by soldering up the anodes of the LEDs and then daisy-chaining the cathodes together using the lead that was on each LED. The leads were rigid enough to also help support the LED chain, and the rigidity kept the LEDs in place with no further support (there was a small backerboard on the display, but not enough to keep a dozen-plus individual LEDs in place).
After getting all of the lighting in place, I needed to permanently house the battery compartment. There was already a hole in the built-in cable holder on the enclosure, but it was just a bit too small for the compartment. Using a dremel, I cut away four corners of the hole, and the battery compartment was able to slide right in.
The last step was mounting the circuit boards. The sound board was easy to mount, because the enclosure already had standoffs from the previous board, and they just happened to match up with the mounting holes on the new board. As for the lighting board, I had to get creative.
There were no additional standoffs, and space inside the enclosure was running scarce. So I opted to mount the board to the side of the inner enclosure, using double-sided foamy tape (non-conductive). It’s a little less permanent feeling, but hell, I’m the only one who is ever going to know… Right?!
I put everything back together, put the knobs on, tighten the set screws, and I’m done. Powered the bad-boy on, and enjoy the chaotic noise emanating from the T1 Corruption.
|1 14 PIN IC Socket||$0.20|
|5 RCA Jacks||$2.00|
|1 100K Potentiometer (linear taper)||$0.75|
|2 SPST Switches||$3.90|
|1 .1 uF Ceramic Capacitor||$0.05|
|2 1uF Ceramic Capacitors||$0.50|
|2 .022 uF Ceramic Capacitors||$0.38|
|2 470 pF Ceramic Capacitors||$0.38|
|1 2N3904 IC||$0.15|
|1 Diode: 1N914 or 1N4148||$0.03|
|1 LM741 OpAmp (or equiv)||$0.39|
|1 CD40106 (CMOS only, not 74HC)||$0.76|
|1 Battery Holder||$4.31|
|1 T1 Data Test Set (Enclosure)||$5.00|
|5 Oddball enclosures with RCA Jack and 1 Meg Ohm Pots||$7.50|
|1 Heatshrink Tubing||$1.99|
|2 Radio Shack 276-150 PC Boards||$3.98|
|5 1/4″ Phono Plugs||$9.95|
|1 Various Resistors||$1.00|
|1 Various Lengths of Wire||$1.00|
|5 Right Angle RCA adapters||$6.25|
|6 1/4″ Phono Jacks||$1.98|
|20 Various Red LEDs||$3.00|
Some of these I had on hand, and those prices are just estimates. Total cost of the project without all of the gratuitous fluff (LEDs, external controllers, etc.) is probably closer to like $10. I suggest everyone should take some time and put one together. They’re damn fun.